DMZ

North Korea plans to shut its borders to all tourists on December 1. No more Kaesong, no more lunch with 13 courses and time watching people wander in circles around the city to nowhere. No more coffee you buy in dixie cups with an American dollar.

What will be left our the foreigners glance at the North is here at the Joint Security Area, or Panmunjom. There are past memories here of ax murders and defecting Russians. Now there are guards starring at one another throughout the day and night. From time to time there is a meeting in this building, but mostly, it's just a line of concrete and the tallest, most fit examples of two armies watching. And waiting.