The New Flat

After three months in my apartment I found myself voluntarily giving it up and moving. Our newest employee, and IEP manager, seemed to require an apartment that was above the conditions of most Slovak apartments. So, to save everyone his headache, I gave him mine.

Not without reason, of course. My new flat is on the fifth floor and has a stunning view in three directions, as well as great sunlight on those days when the sun shines. On the other hand, the flat hasn’t been renovated and the furniture and decorations are authentic 1960’s. I think I’ll start with the red shag rugs that cover the couches. Actually, they aren’t even couches, they’re day beds, and about as comfortable as a bed in the day time should be since we are supposed to be working, not napping, right? The walls I thought were wallpapered with art-deco design, but on closer inspection, they are actually painted, with unmatching designs of red and white stripes and star prints. The parquet wood floors are covered with a variety of rug remnants, some cut in half, obviously from some time past, and now placed together as if they we meant to be that way. Two chairs in the living room have orange and red paisley covers over the green upholstery.

But, even in this 60’s mesh, there are two antiques that must not be overlooked. The first is the bed. It’s a single bed, which can only remind me of childhood since it’s the only time anyone has a single bed, which must date back to the 1930’s. The wood frame is stunning, with beautiful patterns engraved on it. If only it were as comfortable as it is beautiful, though. The mattress might as well be a wooden board for all of the cushion it has to it. And this actually wouldn’t be a problem if it didn’t lie on top of a plethora of springs, so whenever you move even the tiniest amount, the entire surface bounces and throws you off. That’s okay, though, because the floor really is softer.



The other gem is the refrigerator. It’s a Frigidaire with the Made in the USA plaque still shining. The bottom has an opening where the ice used to go, but now when you open it, it reveals a small, noisy motor which is efficient enough to make the whole contraption a freezer. Only, there is no freezer, or I guess no fridge, you just have to take your pick. The handle of it probably broke off fifty years ago, so now you use a screwdriver to open it, but it has the most satisfying feeling to see the simple latch still operating. Classic!

The 80's

The 80’s are alive and well here in Slovakia, and most of Eastern Europe, and I’m sure if we looked close enough, we could even find Elvis around here somewhere. When the weather was warmer, you would see the women in their trendy off the one-shoulder sweatshirts, and with little effort the songs from Flash Dance and Fame come flooding back. There are even leg warmers in some of the shops. The music in most of the pubs, on the radio and TV (including VH1), are also 25 years old. It’s common to hear the Thompson Twins, Boy George or Michael Jackson, daily, though Madonna is mysteriously vacant from the airwaves…

I try to avoid becoming an 80’s wanna-be, but sometimes I really can’t help it. The other morning I found myself walking to school in a stone washed denim jacket, white lip gloss, which is actually just SPF 15 chap stick but looks oddly similar, singing the Bangels, “Manic Monday”, even though it was Tuesday. I was actually enjoying myself.

It was one of those cold mornings where the puddles were all frozen, the leaves and grass sparkled from ice crystals, but the sun, just coming up over the hills, was that warm orange color that makes you think its summer again.

The snow we had the week before had already melted and the city took advantage of the clear weather to pick up the piles of leaves. A month ago, each apartment block seemed to have a work party, and everyone grabbed their brooms, rakes and snow shovels, and piled the fallen leaves next to the road. Now, the city was picking them up, using large bull dozers, dump trucks and tractors, which seems a little over kill, but I guess it makes the job seem a little more “manly”.

Which was more important, being manly or wasting fossil fuels?

TV

It’s great having a TV, though I’m limited to watching shows that are visual and not mental, since I can’t understand much. Some, like Walker, Texas Ranger, or Malcolm in the Middle, aren’t much different. But the Simpson’s are reduced to trivial and boring, as their voices don’t have any character, and the jokes are lost in the language.

So, I find myself watching a lot of documentaries, sports and cultural events. The most common seem to be of WWII. The attack of some castle, which by the end has been restored, seem to be the most common. On the screen, the black and white pictures of ruin and destruction, with soldiers huddled down in the snow are becoming regular and common images for me. These aren’t just limited to TV, either. In the park on the corner are old guns, which the kids play on. In the forest behind the town is a large memorial and graves from the Slovak Uprising. And the Jewish Cemetery and Synagogue are locked up and abandoned.

You’ll also find things on Slovak TV that you would never see in America, such as theater performances, symphonies and two hours of African drumming at some high school theater. And, there are those shows that are identical, American Idol (called Slovak Superstar) and Big Brother,(Velky Brat). My favorite show, though, hands down, is the game show BINGO, of course sponsored by the TIPOS lottery. An array of people, from ancient farmers to young students, sit patiently in their rows, waiting for their number to be called so they can mark off their square and have a chance to answer a question to win an extra 1000 Slovak crowns, (about $30 US). If you think it sounds exciting, you should see the look on their faces. My college soils class was more lively. So is a grave yard, come to think of it. I have never seen more boredom broadcast live into your living room every week. I love it.