Hama, Syria

I've been in Hama for long enough to think that if a person doesn't say hi to me as I walk down the street, s/he might be rude or a tourist. That's how friendly the world is here. If you need to cross the street and can't quite manage it like to locals, walk over to the cop at the corner, and he'll stop traffic for you. Easy as can be.

Hama's true charm is the Norias, or water wheels, that have supplied water to the homes and fields since the 4th century, though these are much newer (13th century) with some obvious reconstruction. They are wood in fresh water after all. At times there is enough water and wind that you can convince yourself it is raining which is quite the treat. Any amount of water is a treat after so long in the desert.

Around Hama there are also numerous ancient sites to keep one occupied. There is Apamea, an ancient Roman city which once housed half a million people, the Dead Cities which are Roman ghost towns now overgrown with olive groves, and two amazing crusader fortresses, Crac Des Chevaliers, known to be impenetrable, and Salahiddin's Citadel, buried high in the pine and juniper forests.

It's all very charming and an easy place to wile away the days.

Except, Ramadan starts on the 10th. for the next thirty days. From dawn (about 4:30 am) until dusk (7:30 pm) no food or water can touch your lips. I think I can make it with the food, but it's still over 110 each day and not drinking water seems like suicide. Abdula, the hotel owner here, has told me that Ramadan is to help everyone understand what it is to be poor so they will have more understanding and charity. It's a lovely concept, and maybe I'll try a day. Maybe.

Or, maybe not.