The Wooden Churches of the East

So school is out and the road was calling. So I rented a car, (Toyota's European version of a cross between a minivan and an SUV), and braved the Slovak drivers to see what the rest of this country looks like.

I knew going in that the Eastern half of Slovakia has higher unemployment, more Roma's (or gypsies as the locals call them, usually with great distaste), poor public access and no highways. That said, there is no easy way to visit the odd and unique sites that make Slovakia so wonderful. Hence, the car, which is quite interesting when you can't read the street signs and warning signs (Pozor!) create more questions than caution. Not to mention that passing all of the trucks, tractors and horse drawn carts carrying hay, at 100 km/hr, usually on small, twisty roads, just added to the adventure.

Honestly, though, there is no other way to get there. Take for example, the wooden churches. There are maybe 40 of these churches still in the small villages, and more that have been preserved in skanzen (outdoor museums of old buildings). The earliest ones are from the 16th century and many are still used today for services and weddings. The people from this area are Rusyns, who have Ukrainian roots but their own language, culture and religion, hence the churches.

To see the church, you must first go to the local pub, (where you can’t drink if you’re driving because Slovakia has zero tolerance), introduce yourself in your best Slovak, and ask where the churches caretaker lives. Doing your best to follow their directions, you wander the streets until you come to the appropriate house (you hope), and ask for a tour of the church, again in your best Slovak. On the two visits at which I was successful, an older man would clean up from whatever task he was working on in the house or shop, grab the key, then walk with you down to the church. One had an alarm, one had chicken wire holding the fence closed. He turns on the lights and lets you wander, stare and gape while he patiently waits.

Inside, you are in a truly unique building, filled with paintings and sculptures. It is truly impressive that something this beautiful is accessible by just asking.

For more pictures, go to karenclapp.smugmug.com